Winchester Bay & Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

The Umpqua River Lighthouse

A friend recently shared about staying in a "Deluxe" yurt at Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. I've gone yurt camping by bus before, but "Deluxe?" What's more, I've been to the Umpqua River Lighthouse many times, but I had never realized that just past the lighthouse a half mile or less, is the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park campground. I checked the Oregon State Parks web site and learned deluxe yurts include a full bathroom with shower, refrigerator, microwave, and even a DVD player with TV. I checked availability which is always a challenge. I just scrolled forward until I found a three night opening. Reservations at state parks can be made six months in advance, so anything available in the immedite future would be the result of a cancellation. I booked the stay, which was for a Tuesday through Friday. 

Coos County Area Transit (CCAT) operates the Florence Express, the bus route between Florence and Coos Bay. Winchester Bay lies about midway betwen the two. There are just two daily runs, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. Link Lane operates a thrice daily route between Eugene and Florence. Three Rivers Casino is the transfer point between the two. There's a half hour layover here. Five dollars gets you to Florence and three more to Winchester Bay. Sixteen dollars for the round trip.

Yurt camping by bus poses some challenges as well. In addition to my camera bag, I had to fit everything, from food and clothing to a sleeping bag and anything else I might need into one bag. To further complicate things a bit, the bus let me off at 10:24 AM, the scheduled time, in Winchester Bay. Check in time at the campground wasn't until 4:00 PM, although I had hopes of getting in a little early. And it was 2.4 miles away. There are several places between the bus stop and the campground where I could stop, take my bags off and kill a little time.

Salmon Harbor Marina

It might sound like more trouble than it's all worth. It's not. My path to the campground led me along the docks at the Salmon Harbor marina where I came across some harbor seals lazing in the late morning sun.

Harbor seal at Salmon Harbor

Further up the road I came to the public crabbing dock at Oak Rock County Park and another opportunity to take a load off and just gaze at the water, letting time do what it will.

Public crabbing dock at Oak Rock County Park

I continued on up Lighthouse Road to the wayside by the lighthouse. It wasn't a terribly long uphill hike, but after a few hours making my way to this point, it felt like it was. At the top, I found an empty bench and set my bags down. It was 1:30. Two and a half hours to go. I figured I'd try to check in an hour early, at 3:00. 

Looking out to sea, there is an expanse of sand spreading out below up to the tree line. I wondered, as I had in past visits, if you can just cross it to get to the ocean beach. The following day I found out. It is a short cut to South Jetty Beach County Park. Just watch for off-road vehicles crossing the access road.

View from the lighthouse wayside

I passed the lovely little Lake Marie on my way to the campground, and determined that if I couldn't check in early, I'd come back here for the hour. There is a one-mile trail around the lake. I'd hike it a couple times a day, morning and late afternoon.

Lovely little Lake Marie

I was able to check in early, and the host even offered to deliver my firewood purchase, instead of me making a trip back to pick it up. The yurt was fantastic. It slept eight and it was all mine until Friday.

Yurt 16

The following day I walked back into Winchester Bay to get a loaf of bread and some chips. I was also going to get a whole Dungeness crab to enjoy around the camp fire for dinner. I went by way of Highway 101 to compare the route for Friday morning when I would be catching the bus home. It was a mile shorter, but there was a lot more uphill trudging, and then there were parts of the shoulder on 101 that might prove dangerous when loaded with gear and a log truck roars past. I'd take the longer, safer route. Unfortunately for me, the Sportsman's Cannery was closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, so no crab. This time.

Despite my disappointment at not having crab around the fire, I did have the rest of the accompanying ingredients from home: andouille sausage, potatoes, sundried tomatoes, green peppers, garlic and corn on the cob. It tasted as good as it sounds and looks.

Mmm mmm